Route 13b of this tour of the North Island starts with a full tank of fuel and maybe a coffee before heading out of Gisborne.
Leaving Gisborne by crossing over the Taruheru River and joining the Back Ormond Road, you'll pass vineyards as you make your way to join the State Highway 2. The SH2 is the only road you'll use as you head north to Opotiki. The first half of the route travels through beautiful agricultural land that becomes increasingly spectacular as you get closer to the Waioeka Reserve.
The Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve is New Zealand's largest scenic reserve, covering around 1,800 hectares of rich native forest and regenerating farmland. Some of the reserve was cleared for farming after World War 1, but the settlers couldn’t produce enough from the land to make their efforts worthwhile. Retired farmland has progressively been added to the Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve and is regenerating at a fast rate. The regeneration of the land goes through many rapid changes, from pasture grass to fern, and then invasion of fern by broad leaved hardwood and softwood shrubs. Illustration of these stages can be clearly seen throughout the Gorge.
The settlers left behind two historic bridges that have since been replaced, the old bridges are still in situ and are easily visited by a short walk. The first is the Manganuku Bridge at RP 4. Built in 1928, the Manganuku Bridge is one of the few remaining Howe truss bridges in New Zealand. A Howe truss is a truss bridge consisting of chords, verticals, and diagonals whose vertical members are in tension and whose diagonal members are in compression. The Howe truss was invented by William Howe in 1840.
Then there's the Tauranga Bridge at RP 11. The historic Tauranga Bridge is the only surviving harp suspension bridge left in New Zealand. It was built in 1922 by the Public Works Department to provide access to sheep farms up the Tauranga Valley. The bridge is of national significance for its engineering design and appearance. Heritage New Zealand has registered it as a Category 1 Historic Place.
From a tower at one end, each suspension cable passes under a different bridge crosspiece, before rising to the tower at the other end. This creates an unusual and attractive 'harp-like' pattern, hence the term harp suspension bridge.
In the 1970s when farming in the valley was abandoned, vehicles stopped using the bridge, and it was no longer maintained. By the 1990s, the bridge was near to collapse. However, in 1994, significant structural work was carried out on the bridge, followed by further restoration in 1996.
In between the two bridges is a coffee or lunch stop at Caravan Cafe set in the heart of the reserve.
The route now gradually descends and the twisty road begins to straighten as you follow the Waioeka River to the end of the route at Opotiki.
Opotiki is a small town whose Maori population exceeds 50%, making it one of the few towns in New Zealand to be predominantly populated by Maori. Reflecting the area’s importance for Maori the main street in Opotiki is decorated with the works of master carvers. To get a picture of local history, you can take a guided walk with a Maori historian or visit the museum. Opotiki was one of the first places settled by Maori; it was also a centre for the Hauhau religion. In summer, the town fills up with holiday makers who come to enjoy the surf beaches, fishing and river activities.
The route ends, after filling up with fuel for tomorrow, at the Ranui Motel. As Opotiki is favoured by visitors, there are many choices for accommodation, I have included a few below.
Enjoy.