
03 Consuegra to Hornos in Andalusia

This route was brought to you by:
RouteXpert Nick Carthew - (MRA Master)
Last edit: 04-03-2022
This route travels into the Sierra Madrona mountains and crosses over the Sierra Morena via the Despeñaperros Pass to enter Andalusia. It then travels into the largest protected area in Spain, the breathtakingly beautiful Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park. The varying beautiful landscapes earn this route 4**** stars.
Animation
Verdict
Duration
9h 17m
Mode of travel
Car or motorcycle
Distance
352.02 km
Countries


The Despeñaperros Pass.
With a famous quote from Don Quixote in your head, it's time to start this leg of the tour:
"he who reads much and travels much sees and knows a great deal"
Heading southwest out of Consuegra and taking a bumpy road from Urda, you'll soon be on the smooth bitumen of the N-401.
There are references to Don Quixote throughout the province of Castile-La Mancha and a roadside restaurant caught our eye just after the town of Fuente el Fresno. Restaurante La Granja is decorated with various pieces of homemade art representing the famous novel. They also have an old Moto Guzzi Hispania motorcycle inside and served the BEST coffee.
Ciudad Real (Royal City)
The city was once surrounded by a 4km long defensive wall with 130 towers. The 14th C Puerta de Toledo gate that greets you is one of the eight gates which allowed access to the city's walled area. You can visit the much acclaimed Don Quixote museum here.
Change roads to the N-420 now and watch the rolling landscape slowly change from vast fields of cereal to olive groves as you near the industrial town of Puertollano.
Puertollano is the largest industrial center in the Castile-La Mancha province. It was formerly a coal mining town but today only one open-cast mine remains. A nod to the mining history can be seen on a roundabout where a colossal winding wheel is on display. Nowadays the main industries are petrochemicals, fertilisers, power generation and most recently, the manufacture of solar panels. A Burger King restaurant makes a quick coffee stop before heading towards the Sierra Madrona. The range is mostly covered in shrubs and is named after the Madroño or Madroña, the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) which is abundant in the area. The road is twisty and fun to ride with great views of the surrounding hillsides.
At the town of Viso del Marqués you'll find the Palace of the Marquis of Santa Cruz, a great example of the Italian-style Renaissance palaces built between 1564 and 1588, in fact, it is the only preserved, Italian styled palace in all of Spain. The palace's façade is quite austere, in contrast with the lavish interior. The courtyard, the staircase, and the halls are decorated with Mannerist frescoes. Embedded on the wall that faces the garden we find the Baroque sepulchral busts of don Alonso de Bazán, second marquis of Santa Cruz, and of his wife María de Figueroa, which date from the first third of the 17th century. The palace is also home of the archives of the Spanish Navy. Quite bizarre really when you consider how far away it is from the coast. A coincidence that this tour ends at Cartagena, home of the modern Spanish Navy.
A short 10km section of the A-4 motorway takes you to the northern end of the Despeñaperros Pass where I have suggested a lunch stop at La Teja restaurant.
The Despeñaperros Pass
On the 16th July 1212, Christian forces led by Alfonso VIII of Castile crept through a narrow ravine that cuts through the Sierra Morena and links La Mancha with Jaen province in northern Andalusia. Once through this natural gateway, the Christian forces slaughtered a Muslim army. Hundreds of the vanquished Muslims were thrown from the walls of the deep ravine to perish on the rocks below. The Battle of Navas de Tolosa was a decisive battle during the re-conquest and the slaughter of the captives gave rise to the name of the ravine, Despeñaperros, (literally ‘throw dogs off’). Or so legend has it.
Whether the legend is true or not, the Despeñaperros pass is one of the main routes into Andalusia through the Sierra Morena mountains. The river gorge, with its high, sheer, quartzite walls, is a dramatic gateway into Andalusia from the north and the only natural break in the 500 kilometre long Sierra Morena mountains. It is a feature that is preserved for future generations by having the status of Parque Natural.
Despeñaperros Natural Park
The rocks, some of the oldest in Spain, also reveal a geological history that starts in the southern hemisphere some 500 million years ago and an incredible journey that has taken them to the south pole and back to the northern hemisphere as the ancient supercontinents merged, split and merged again.
For the next 100 km to the end of the route, it's all about olives!
The province of Jaen is known for it's Olive oil production, more than 4.500 square kilometres are devoted to olive groves containing around 40 million olive trees. This province alone produces more olive oil annually than the whole of Italy.
The hillsides have a chequerboard appearance where the thousands of olive trees have been planted equally spaced.
You'll cross over the Fernandina and then the Guadalen reservoirs, two of the fifteen reservoirs used partially for the irrigation of olives and see olive mills where the oil is produced.
Towards the end of the route the trees change from olive to pine as you climb to the highest point of the day at 1010m and enter the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park.
With an area of 2,100 square kilometres covering a fifth of Jaen, it is the largest protected area in Spain and the second largest in Europe. The park contains around 1,300 species of plants, but you don't need to be a botanist to enjoy the immense forests of tall pines that reach up to 20m in height, the sweet-scented profusion of thyme, rosemary, marjoram and lavender and the brightly coloured wildflowers. It truly is a beautiful area.
Descending from the high ground the route passes through the small hamlet of Cortijos Nuevos and turns off of the road to Hornos to end at Hotel Losam.
Hotel Losam is biker friendly with secure parking under the hotel. The owners were great and very friendly. I've included a link below.
Enjoy

The Palace of the Marquis of Santa Cruz.

Olive trees paint a checkerboard on the rolling hills.
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Andalusia
About this region
Andalusia (UK: , US: ; Spanish: Andalucía [andaluˈθi.a]) is the southernmost autonomous community in Peninsular Spain. It is the most populous and the second largest autonomous community in the country. It is officially recognised as a "historical nationality". The territory is divided into eight provinces: Almería, Cádiz, Córdoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaén, Málaga, and Seville. Its capital city is Seville. The seat of the High Court of Justice of Andalusia is located in the city of Granada.
Andalusia is located in the south of the Iberian peninsula, in southwestern Europe, immediately south of the autonomous communities of Extremadura and Castilla-La Mancha; west of the autonomous community of Murcia and the Mediterranean Sea; east of Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean; and north of the Mediterranean Sea and the Strait of Gibraltar. Andalusia is the only European region with both Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines. The small British overseas territory of Gibraltar shares a three-quarter-mile land border with the Andalusian portion of the province of Cádiz at the eastern end of the Strait of Gibraltar.
The main mountain ranges of Andalusia are the Sierra Morena and the Baetic System, consisting of the Subbaetic and Penibaetic Mountains, separated by the Intrabaetic Basin. In the north, the Sierra Morena separates Andalusia from the plains of Extremadura and Castile–La Mancha on Spain's Meseta Central. To the south the geographic subregion of Upper Andalusia lies mostly within the Baetic System, while Lower Andalusia is in the Baetic Depression of the valley of the Guadalquivir.The name "Andalusia" is derived from the Arabic word Al-Andalus (الأندلس). The toponym al-Andalus is first attested by inscriptions on coins minted in 716 by the new Muslim government of Iberia. These coins, called dinars, were inscribed in both Latin and Arabic. The etymology of the name "al-Andalus" has traditionally been derived from the name of the Vandals. Since the 1980s, a number of proposals have challenged this contention. Halm, in 1989, derived the name from a Gothic term, *landahlauts,
and in 2002, Bossong suggested its derivation from a pre-Roman substrate. The region's history and culture have been influenced by the Tartessos, Iberians, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Byzantines, Berbers of North Africa, Jews, Romani, Arab Umayyads, and Moors. During the Islamic Golden Age, Cordoba surpassed Constantinople to be Europe's biggest city, and became the capital of Al Andalus and a prominent center of education and learning in the world, producing numerous philosophers and scientists. The Castilian and other Christian North Iberian nationalities reconquered and settled the area in the latter phases of the Reconquista.
Andalusia has historically been an agricultural region, compared to the rest of Spain and the rest of Europe. Still, the growth of the community in the sectors of industry and services was above average in Spain and higher than many communities in the Eurozone. The region has a rich culture and a strong Spanish identity. Many cultural phenomena that are seen internationally as distinctively Spanish are largely or entirely Andalusian in origin. These include flamenco and, to a lesser extent, bullfighting and Hispano-Moorish architectural styles, both of which are also prevalent in some other regions of Spain.
Andalusia's hinterland is the hottest area of Europe, with cities like Córdoba and Seville averaging above 36 °C (97 °F) in summer high temperatures. Late evening temperatures can sometimes stay around 35 °C (95 °F) until close to midnight and daytime highs of over 40 °C (104 °F) are common. Seville also has the highest average annual temperature in mainland Spain and mainland Europe (19.2 °C, 66.6 °F), closely followed by Almería (19.1 °C, 66.4 °F).
Read more on Wikipedia
Andalusia is located in the south of the Iberian peninsula, in southwestern Europe, immediately south of the autonomous communities of Extremadura and Castilla-La Mancha; west of the autonomous community of Murcia and the Mediterranean Sea; east of Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean; and north of the Mediterranean Sea and the Strait of Gibraltar. Andalusia is the only European region with both Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines. The small British overseas territory of Gibraltar shares a three-quarter-mile land border with the Andalusian portion of the province of Cádiz at the eastern end of the Strait of Gibraltar.
The main mountain ranges of Andalusia are the Sierra Morena and the Baetic System, consisting of the Subbaetic and Penibaetic Mountains, separated by the Intrabaetic Basin. In the north, the Sierra Morena separates Andalusia from the plains of Extremadura and Castile–La Mancha on Spain's Meseta Central. To the south the geographic subregion of Upper Andalusia lies mostly within the Baetic System, while Lower Andalusia is in the Baetic Depression of the valley of the Guadalquivir.The name "Andalusia" is derived from the Arabic word Al-Andalus (الأندلس). The toponym al-Andalus is first attested by inscriptions on coins minted in 716 by the new Muslim government of Iberia. These coins, called dinars, were inscribed in both Latin and Arabic. The etymology of the name "al-Andalus" has traditionally been derived from the name of the Vandals. Since the 1980s, a number of proposals have challenged this contention. Halm, in 1989, derived the name from a Gothic term, *landahlauts,
and in 2002, Bossong suggested its derivation from a pre-Roman substrate. The region's history and culture have been influenced by the Tartessos, Iberians, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Byzantines, Berbers of North Africa, Jews, Romani, Arab Umayyads, and Moors. During the Islamic Golden Age, Cordoba surpassed Constantinople to be Europe's biggest city, and became the capital of Al Andalus and a prominent center of education and learning in the world, producing numerous philosophers and scientists. The Castilian and other Christian North Iberian nationalities reconquered and settled the area in the latter phases of the Reconquista.
Andalusia has historically been an agricultural region, compared to the rest of Spain and the rest of Europe. Still, the growth of the community in the sectors of industry and services was above average in Spain and higher than many communities in the Eurozone. The region has a rich culture and a strong Spanish identity. Many cultural phenomena that are seen internationally as distinctively Spanish are largely or entirely Andalusian in origin. These include flamenco and, to a lesser extent, bullfighting and Hispano-Moorish architectural styles, both of which are also prevalent in some other regions of Spain.
Andalusia's hinterland is the hottest area of Europe, with cities like Córdoba and Seville averaging above 36 °C (97 °F) in summer high temperatures. Late evening temperatures can sometimes stay around 35 °C (95 °F) until close to midnight and daytime highs of over 40 °C (104 °F) are common. Seville also has the highest average annual temperature in mainland Spain and mainland Europe (19.2 °C, 66.6 °F), closely followed by Almería (19.1 °C, 66.4 °F).
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