Your journey actually begins at the Russian border. From Stepantsminda, where you can refuel beforehand, you'll drive north along the so-called Georgian Military Road to the Darial Gorge near the border.

The Georgian Military Highway
The name alone captures the imagination. As the name suggests, this unique route is located in Georgia. It's a historic route through the Caucasus from Russia to Georgia. Historically, the road was heavily used by traders, but also by plunderers. In the 19th century, the Russians improved the road to allow troops to move more quickly; hence the name "Military." However, it's not a highway, but a two-lane road that winds through stunning landscapes. The presence of old Soviet trucks doesn't detract from the magnificent views. A road trip along the Georgian Military Highway could well be the road trip of your dreams! In the early 19th century, the Georgian Military Highway was extensively constructed, providing a significant economic boost to Georgia.
Just driving along the Georgian Military Highway is pure bliss. The views are breathtaking, and it's not uncommon to be held up for a moment, forcing you to savor all the beauty you encounter! Sometimes you can't keep going because an old Soviet truck is squeezing through tight hairpin bends in front of you, other times you're forced to stop because a shepherd is leading his sheep across the road, or a herd of cows has decided they prefer asphalt to grass.

Darial Gorge
The narrowest and rockiest part of the gorge, with its vertical cliffs reaching heights of up to 1,000 meters, lies between the Terek tributaries Amali and Chde. Dariali Fortress (also known as Tamara Castle) was built near the latter in the 2nd century BC. This section of the gorge is also the most prone to avalanches and flooding. It's a beautiful spot for a short break near the Russian border. There's a waterfall, a restaurant, a café, and a church nearby. The Dariali Monastery is surrounded by breathtaking mountain views—it truly feels like stepping into a postcard. The sound of the nearby river, the fresh mountain air, and the peaceful atmosphere make it a perfect place to breathe and simply be present. The church itself is truly beautiful, simple yet grand in its own way.

Gergeti Trinity Church
Heading back towards Stepantsminda, formerly known as Kazbegi, you'll drive to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, overlooking Mount Kazbek at 5,047 meters. From the road, you'll have a spectacular view of the Tsminda Sameba Gergeti, arguably the most beautifully situated church in the Caucasus. The silhouette of this Orthodox church stands out beautifully against the snow-capped peak of Mount Kazbeg. It's Georgia's hotspot, perhaps second only to Tbilisi, and the highlight of the Georgian Military Highway. Perched on a hill about 400 meters above Stepantsminda, with Mount Kazbek in the background, this church is one of the country's most iconic landmarks. The complex comprises a domed church and a bell tower dating from the 14th century, along with an annex built against the southern wall in the 15th century.

Stepantsminda (coffee stop)
Just before the village, there's a coffee break. If you're staying here a bit longer and looking for adventure, there's plenty to do in this small mountain village! Go rafting on the Snotskali River, kayaking on the Terek River, visit the Gveleti and Arsha waterfalls. Or try a zipline. Take a khinkali-making workshop with a local family, bathe in the nearby mineral springs, or go horseback riding in the mountains. Gas stations are located just outside the village.

Giant heads
Georgia's answer to Easter Island immortalizes the country's great poets, artists, and leaders in stone. The site consists of a series of monolithic heads carved from granite. Situated on a sloping hill at the entrance to the village of Sno, a short detour from the Georgian Military Highway, these massive works of art are impossible to miss.

Travertine springs
On the way to the Jvari Pass, you'll soon come to a bend where the rock face is made of a striking material. This natural phenomenon, where mineral-rich water leaves behind white-pink salt deposits, is a photogenic stop. The salty mineral water flows over it in a thin layer. A beautiful sight, and despite looking extremely slippery, it's perfectly climbable! If you're brave enough, you can even take a sip of the water—though the taste is debatable.

Jvar mountain pass
Between the snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus, along the Georgian Military Highway, lies the Jvari Pass, a gateway connecting the vibrant ski resorts of Gudauri and Kobi. The Jvari Pass, also known as the Cross Pass, is both literally and figuratively one of the highlights of the Georgian Military Highway. At 2,379 meters, this pass is the highest point on the route and offers unparalleled panoramic views of the Caucasus.

Gudauri (lunch stop)
Not far from the pass lies the Gudauri ski resort, a great spot for lunch, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Greater Caucasus. Choose one of the welcoming restaurants serving Georgian beer and delicious, piping hot khinkali (meat dumplings).
Just past the village, you'll also find the Devil's Viewpoint and the Friendship Monument, a concrete structure with murals. While not particularly spectacular in itself, it was strategically placed in a location offering fantastic views. Perched on the edge of a breathtaking precipice, high above waterfalls, you look out over an expanse of deep green, almost impossible to describe, except to say that this deep valley is popularly known as "Devil's Valley." A rather ironic location for the monument. Stand at the edge, and you'll immediately understand why.

Lomisa Church
Just after the hairpin bends, you'll see the old St. George of Lomisa looming. It's an impressive testament to the veneration of St. George, which began in the fourth century. Located in the picturesque village of Kvemo Mleta, the church stands majestically on the watershed of the Ksani and Aragvi rivers, approximately 2,300 meters above sea level.
The adjacent Lomisi Monastery consists of three adjacent hall churches, each reflecting the refined architecture of Georgia. On the south side of these churches stands a two-story bell tower from the late Middle Ages, surrounded by several tombs. The best-preserved of these tombs lies to the west and has a door, a window, and a vaulted roof.

Tsikhisdziri Castle
The medieval fortress on a mountaintop dominated the route between the Aragvi Valley and the Ksani Gorge and served as the residence of local feudal lords. The complex consists of an upper castle and a lower courtyard; the oldest element is considered a four-story tower, whose structure indicates continuous habitation. Fragments of the walls, tower, and fortifications remain to this day, making it one of the least known, yet impressive, mountain castles in the region.

Ananuri Castle
The next highlight is Ananuri Castle at the Zhinvali Reservoir, a favorite stop for both tourists and locals. This historic complex, with its castle and magnificent Orthodox church, is postcard-worthy, and the Georgians know it too, as they visit this location en masse. So much so, in fact, that the parking lot (read: the gravel pit) is overflowing in summer, the stalls are incredibly crowded, and the view is therefore limited. A bit of a tourist trap, but a beautiful one nonetheless. While it can get crowded at the church and castle walls in summer, a visit to one of the nearby rooftop terraces offers tranquility and the same fantastic view of the turquoise reservoir as you get from Ananuri Fortress. There are no tourists in sight, and the panoramas are unparalleled! The surroundings are rugged and beautiful: this is a fantastic location for a fortress!

Mtskheta
A worthy stop on your road trip along the Georgian Military Highway is the ancient capital of Georgia. Mtskheta has been declared a "holy city" by the Georgian Orthodox Church and is a major tourist destination, especially because of its Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. As you enter the town square, it quickly becomes clear why. What a wonderful atmosphere pervades it, with the medieval cathedral as the central and literal highlight. Around it, you'll find cozy terraces and a market brimming with local produce and delicacies, including a very extensive selection of chacha, the Georgian vodka. A perfect reward for your journey! The end point is fast approaching.

Tbilisi
The Georgian capital is picturesquely situated on the Kura River, known locally as Mtkvari, and has a history dating back to the 5th century. The name Tbilisi means "hot spring," a reference to the natural hot springs on which the city was founded. The old town is the heart of the city and houses many important sights within walking distance of each other. Typical Tbilisi houses with charming wooden balconies give the old town a unique character.
A city with so much heritage, where different cultures and religions live peacefully together. Thanks to its historic location on the Silk Road, Tbilisi is a vibrant city where old charm blends with today's modern energy. Any prejudice due to its communist history is therefore completely unwarranted. Combined with the warm hospitality and delicious food and wine, Tbilisi is an absolute must-see for a city break. If you have the time, you can even join a city guide on a Free Walking Tour to 'The Leaning Clocktower'. Located in the heart of the Old Town, you'll find this fairytale-like clock tower that's part of a puppet theater. Unique to this clock tower is that it houses both the largest and smallest clock in the city! Every hour, an angel appears and rings the bell, but the most exciting part takes place daily at noon or 7 p.m. Then, the doors at the top of the clock tower open, and a small puppet show called 'The Circle of Life' takes place.