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06 Pau to La Rochelle via the ferry from Le Verdon to Royan
This route was brought to you by:
RouteXpert Nick Carthew - (MRA Master)
Last edit: 17-03-2025
Route Summary
The sixth route in this tour is a pleasant ride past fields of sunflowers and maize, pine forests and through the Landes de Gascogne Regional Natural Park. Then you cross over the mighty Gironde estuary by ferry and head to the finish at the popular costal town of La Rochelle. I award this route 3*** stars
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Verdict
Duration
8h 17m
Mode of travel
Car or motorcycle
Distance
372.17 km
Countries
Ferry at Pointe de Grave
RouteXpert Review
This route formed part of our homeward leg of our Santander in Spain to Roscoff in France tour of 2016. This is route 6 and starts and ends at Ibis Hotels. We find this brand of hotel very convenient as you can book them in advance (normally without deposit) and cancel on the day of your stay if required. This hotel was a little more expensive than the ones that we normally stay at, but it is in the heart of La Rochelle and everything is just a short walk away, and we planned to stay for two nights making it ideal for us.
This is quite a long route at 231 miles or 372 kilometres so I would advise an early start. The last ferry leaves at 19:15.

The route starts by riding past fields of sunflowers and maize, so typically French for this region and through avenues of plain trees and the pine forests of Landes, the largest man-made woodland in Western Europe. The forest roads are not challenging but they are a delight to ride on, especially on a warm day when the smell of the pine is intoxicating. The Landes landscape has changed, before humans began to modify the landscape of Landes de Gascogne was covered by a mixed forest of deciduous and coniferous trees. This was largely cleared by around 600 AD and replaced by moorland. The popular image of the Landes was that of a Gascon shepherd standing on stilts to watch over his flock. A modern art sculpture depicting a Landes Wader can be seen on a roundabout.

There is a ferry from Pointe de Grave across the mighty Gironde Estuary to Royan about every 45 minutes in the summer. The ferry crossing takes about 30 minutes and costs (2016) a little over 10 euros for a motorcycle and rider. In my opinion this route is much nicer than riding through the notorious traffic of Bordeaux. There is no need to book, just turn up 30 minutes before you leave. There are lots of bars and restaurants near the ferry terminal if you need to wait.

Soon after landing at Royan the landscape changes again as you ride across the Seudre delta, passing drainage ditches and channels in this low lying area. Crossing the River Charente at Rochefort over the elevated Viaduct de Martrou, gives you a good view over the surrounding region and a great view of the Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge to the right. It is the last transporter bridge in operation in France although it has a bit of a chequered past. Built between 1898 and 1900, abandoned in 1967 and refurbished in 1994, it is now an historical monument.
From here, it is just a short 30 minute ride to the hotel at La Rochelle.

We stayed here for two nights, this gave us all a little rest from riding and also the chance to sample the nightlife properly without fear of the breathalyzer the next morning! We found a fabulous bar that you must try. It's one of those places that you might miss and walk straight passed. It's called La Guignette and I will add a link below this review. The place is bursting with character and charm and has a deep history of supplying wine to the fishing boats! La Rochelle is a food lovers heaven and is full with restaurants serving delicious seafood and amazing produce from the region.
Bon Appétit
Enjoy

Typical French Avenue
Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge
Links
ibis La Rochelle Vieux-Port
Royan ferry
The Landes de Gascogne Regional Natural Park
Le Face a Face restaurant
La Guignette
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