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Vieirinhos to Peniche visiting Nazare
This route was brought to you by:
RouteXpert Nick Carthew - (MRA Master)
Last edit: 23-12-2020
Route Summary
A great route combining coast and hills on mostly good roads. Some villages have cobblestones and you may encounter some mud or gravel on the more rural roads but on the whole the roads are good.
I have awarded 4**** stars because of the variety of roads and landscapes and because of the good attractions.
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Verdict
Duration
5h 11m
Mode of travel
Car or motorcycle
Distance
222.61 km
Countries
The São João Baptista Fort on Isle of Berlenga, a short boat ride from Peniche
RouteXpert Review
After leaving your B&B and filling up with fuel you will enter the coastal pine forest that takes you to the beach at Pedrógão for a quick look at the Atlantic Ocean. Then you'll ride a 15 km arrow straight road through more pine forest that follows the coast to São Pedro de Moel.

São Pedro de Moel is a pleasant little coastal resort with cobbled streets. In the 19th century São Pedro de Moel was the location of a thriving resin factory, using the resources of the abundant local pine forests. Today it is 100% fuelled by tourism. It's a pretty place and somewhere to relax and have a coffee before heading into the hills.
From here you travel south east into the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros, a bit of a mouthful but a lovely natural park. With its barren limestone heights crisscrossed by hiking trails, this natural park east of Porto de Mós is a popular and very beautiful place for outdoor pursuits. Once the haunt of dinosaurs, the park is famous for its cathedral-like caves, the route visits two of these caves shortly. Above ground it’s also scenic, particularly the high Planalto de Santo António after the caves Grutas de Santo António. Gorse and olive grove covered hills are divided by an irregular grid of dry-stone walls and threaded by cattle trails, all making for superb riding country.

Acting as a gateway to the park, the route visits the Castelo de Porto de Mós that also has great views. Built on top of of a Roman lookout post, it has accumulated over the centuries military, Gothic and Renaissance influences based on a pentagonal structure with reinforcing turrets at the angles. Initially an Arab fortress, the role of the Porto de Mós castle was striking during the period of the Christian conquest. After successive guerrillas between Portuguese and Moors, in 1148, D. Afonso Henriques, aided by D. Fuas Roupinho, ended up taking over the village and defeating the Saracen troops, commanded by King Gámir de Mérida.
The route heads into the park by snaking it's way up a twisty road and on to the first of the two caves; the Alvados Caves. Altogether there are over 1500 caves in this park, a fact that highlights the porosity of the limestone rock in this region, which happens to be the largest lump of limestone in Portugal.

The Alvados Caves. In 1964 a group of quarry workers in the Serra dos Candeeiros heard a strange noise, as if a stone had fallen into a very deep abyss. This was how the Alvados caves were discovered, more than 150 million years after their formation in the Middle Jurassic age, when the dinosaurs populated this region. The entrance is at an altitude of 440m, and the depth inside reaches 100m. Appropriate lighting, steps, stepping-stones, background music and the pleasant temperature of 17 degrees Celsius invite you to enter the wonderful kingdom of one of the finest of Nature's works. The cave has a succession of rooms adorned with stalagmites and stalactites forming fairytale figures.
Outside of high season, you must go to the Grutas de Santo António cave first.

Santo António cave. The Santo António caves were first discovered more than 150 million years after their formation in the Middle Jurassic age, when the dinosaurs populated this region, their footprints can be seen here today. They were again discovered in 1955 when a young boy noticed a bird coming out of a gap between two rocks. When he told the local townspeople about it, they discovered the gap led to a much larger chamber below. It took several years for the caves to be fully explored to the 293 m that are accessible today.
While you ride through this fabulous landscape, you can't help but admire the sheer hard work it must have been, creating all of the little stone walls, known as choucos, used to divide properties and gather cattle, they are very typical in this region as are the small huts built by shepherds to protect themselves from bad weather.
There is a lunch stop just before leaving the park and the high ground gives you views towards the coast some 70 km away.
It's back to the coast after lunch and the surfers mecca of Nazare.

Nazare is the home of the giant waves. Garrett McNamara holds the record for the largest wave ever surfed, 24 m, set in 2011 in Nazare. The waves can reach over 30 m and one of the best places to see them from is Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo and Nazaré lighthouse, and this route takes you there. The big wave season is between October and March.
Leaving Nazare and it's onto Peniche.

Peniche is a hard-working fishing town, which has transformed into a popular tourist destination. The town of Peniche reflects the fishing industry, having a raw and ramshackle appearance, which has barely altered with the increase of tourism. Once beyond Peniche’s shabby appearance, there is a lot to love; with fantastic seafood restaurants and interesting historic sights. The Peniche Fort is a must-see. It was built in the 16th/17th centuries to defend the coast, together with the Fort on Consolação beach and the fort on the Island of Berlengas. It played a major role at various points in Portuguese history but its most recent purpose was to serve as a political prison under the Estado Novo regime, holding some of the most important public personalities in the fight against Fascism. You will learn all about it once inside, since it is currently the Peniche City Museum.
One of the regional highlights are the Berlengas islands, Portugal’s oldest nature reserve, and the location of the spectacular Sao Joao Baptista fort. The islands can be explored as a day trip from Peniche, with tour boats departing from the harbour.
The end of the route is just a couple of km north of Peniche at a funky surfers B&B called Highway To Swell Motel.
RP 36. Miradouro do suberco, Nazaré.
San Antonio Caves. RP 18
Links
Start. Quinta dos Remedios. B&B
End. Highway To Swell Motel
The caves (Portuguese only)
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Nearby routes
Santarem
About this region
Santarém (Portuguese pronunciation: [sɐ̃tɐˈɾɐ̃j̃] (listen)) is a city and municipality located in the district of Santarém in Portugal. The population in 2011 was 61,752, in an area of 552.54 km². The population of the city proper was 29,929 in 2012.
The mayor is Ricardo Gonçalves (PSD). The municipal holiday is March 19, the day of Saint Joseph (São José). The city is on the Portuguese Way variant of the Way of Saint James.
Read more on Wikipedia
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